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Phideaux

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Everything posted by Phideaux

  1. While the wheel is off the bike, take a flat blade screwdriver and spread the brake shoes in the caliper. This will help you with wrestling the wheel back in place. DO NOT FORGET to pump the rear brakes to eliminate the extra clearance that you created; if you don't, you'll hit your rear brake and it'll not do anything but go down until it reaches the pedal stop. Don't ask how I know this . . . If you haven't changed the brake fluid in the past 3-4 years, this would be a great opportunity to do so; both front and back systems.
  2. You may have a connection issue with any of the sensors that were unplugged; be sure that they are undamaged and liberal coated with di-electric compound before re-assembling. You may need to consider having the ECU re-flashed.
  3. It certainly sounds as though it may be the fuel pump doesn't have enough internal clearance. The overloads the fuel pump motor, makes it draw more current which blows the fuse.
  4. The ambient air will have a great deal to do with how your body perceives the motor heat; hot days will make you sense that the engine is hotter. Hotter days will also force the engine to run hotter as well; Newton's law of heating and cooling demands this. Asbestos chaps will help . . .
  5. You might could get an auto parts store that handles AC Delco do a cross on one of the other TPS that is listed.
  6. I'm unfamiliar with the Hammer and the air box. It sounds as if there is a plastic part that is threaded to accept a screw and the threads have been pulled out of the plastic part. If this is the case, and the plastic part is flat (like a tab) where the screw goes in, then a "blind nut" from a hardware store may work to restore the threads. If the threads are in a place where it isn't flat (interior leg), then you may be able to drill and tap for the next size bolt/screw. In the short term, you may could use a sheet metal or wood screw that is just large enough to provide the required grip so it can be tightened.
  7. Check the key switch electrical connectors; make sure they are clean and coated with dielectric compound. It's beginning to sound like that is your problem. Does the headlight come on when you turn the key to "ON"?
  8. Be sure the "KILL" switch is in the "RUN" position.
  9. Are we talking about the inner race that is on the triple tree center shaft? If so, an industrial approach may work best for you. You can make a slide hammer from pipe and weld it to the inner race, then extract it. I can elaborate more if this is what you're wanting to do.
  10. Does your bike have a digital gear indication? If it does, and it uses the speed sensor info to determine what gear it's in (like the 106's), then if the gear indication works then that would eliminate the speed sensor as a failed component; that would leave the speedo to blame.
  11. Did the neutral N straighten out from the -- that is was showing before, and what about the cyclic clicking that was going on?
  12. And in the distance I hear the crumbling of another Victory dealer's business model, and the "splat" of his tears due to the loss of a years profit . . .
  13. Pull, clean, and retighten your battery connections. Storage in a salt laden air environment isn't good for electrical connections. Also, check the frame ground. If that doesn't do the trick pull your spark plugs, take a good picture of the business ends, and report back in with the pictures. If it isn't a battery connection issue, I'm betting that your fuel pump/pressure regulator is going out.
  14. You can be that the brake system is installed dry at the factory and then filled and vacuum bled. You've still got air trapped. Vacuum bleed them thoroughly and you'll get a firm lever.
  15. I wear HJC helmets. Been down twice, and would be dead if not for the helmet.
  16. I've seen a fairly recent and quick change in the way my clutch is acting; it seems like it's dragging a bit when putting it in gear or changing gears. I let the bike warm up for several minutes before riding it, and it doesn't improve from the initial state. I've checked the endplay of the clutch lever and the correct amount is there. I am very particular in lubing the cable ends with molybdenum disulfide lube at every oil change (5K). I've looked at the exposed cable ends and can see no discernible cable wear or fraying, but I'm wondering if it's getting to the point of replacement. I have a save-ur-ride in the saddlebag, but I'd rather not find myself alongside the road having to install it. The bike has a little over 25,000 miles on it. Opinions?
  17. What is this "heated gear" that everyone's talking about? It was 26 degree here last month; I rode to work in blue jeans, mesh tennis shoes, non-insulated chaps, my leather jacket with insulated liner and a half helmet. Bike does not have heated seat or heated grips. Whoosies! :D
  18. Did you know that the oil drain plug has a torque value? I wonder who, outside of me, uses a torque wrench and new crush washer when re-installing it.
  19. I changed the oil in mine at 500 miles, then again at 2,500 and 5,000 before I began the 5K intervals. You might want to consider doing the same . . .
  20. Lloyd can spot an engine that belongs to a cold-start throttle blipper from a mile away; it severally scuffs the pistons and cylinders. Ignite the thing and let it warm up at idle for at least 60 seconds in cold weather, and your bike will outlast you.
  21. Your headlight causes the space-time continuum to splinter?
  22. Are you going to just replace the PCV with a new one, or try to determine for sure the PCV is bad?
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